Take advantage of the latest thing in trim -- plastic crown molding.
If you want the latest in crown molding, go with plastics.
You'll find a wide range of styles, from relatively plain to incredibly intricate. Plastic crown moldings resemble the best work crafted in plaster and found in stately vintage homes, but plastic's low density slashes weight and cost.
Another appealing aspect of plastic moldings is the fact that the skill level required for successful installation is quite modest. With nothing more complicated than square cuts when you utilize corner and connector blocks, it's a project that's accessible to many people. You'll need just a few basic tools; you can even get by without a miter saw. The material has about the same density as pine, so even a hand-powered cut through the widest molding will barely cause you to break a sweat.
As you shop around, you'll discover several styles and sizes of molding and corner blocks. Be certain that the blocks you select coordinate with both the proportion and character of the molding.
In each block drill a 5/32-inch shank clearance hole through the tabs so that the threads of a #8x2-inch roundhead screw don't hang up on the plastic. Note that there are three styles of block: an inside corner block, an outside corner one, and a connector block. If you need to use a connector block, position it in the middle of a run or evenly space a series of connectors along a wall.
Screw the blocks to the wall, making certain that they are square to the ceiling. Don't overdrive the screws or you'll risk breaking the plastic. To end a run, simply cut a tab off a block with a handsaw. Referring to the depth dimension supplied with the molding (or by measuring it), make a reference mark near each block and about every 4 feet along the run of the molding. The depth dimension is the height of the installed molding on the wall.
Secure the molding with a 2-inch trim-head screw driven into each stud. The slim square-drive trim screws usually don't require a pilot hole. You could drive finishing nails, but be aware that a misplaced hammer blow could smash details of the molding. Screws are far less risky.