You can attach drywall to the framing with nails or screws. Nailing is the faster method, but nails sometimes pop loose later, creating small bumps on the wall surface. (Nail pops occur when studs dry, forcing nails out a little, or if the drywall wasn't nailed tightly to begin with.) Screws cost a bit more in time and money, but they rarely produce pops. Screws must be used when working with steel studs.
Another option is to hold the drywall in place with construction adhesive. This allows you to use fewer nails or screws, reducing the time needed to fill fastener dimples. Adhesive also makes a stiffer wall and reduces nail pops.
You must also decide whether to attach the rectangular sheets horizontally or vertically. Most drywall installers prefer to run the sheets horizontally, which makes a stronger wall, especially over steel studs. In addition, this method places long joints about 4 feet up from the floor, a convenient height for finishing. Stagger the vertical seams if you can; doing so makes the wall stronger.
About 15 to 30 minutes per sheet of drywall, depending on the complexity of the shape
Tape measure, chalk line, power drill/driver or hammer, drywall T-square, utility knife, jab saw, Surform plane
Measuring and laying out, driving screws or nails, cutting with a utility knife
Framing completed; utilities in place
Drywall sheets, 1-5/8-inch drywall nails or screws
In general, make as few seams as possible. Joints between horizontal drywall sheets do not require blocking if the studs are not more than 16 inches on center.
Screw a 2x2 ledger about 52 inches below the ceiling. Place the drywall on the ledger. Make sure the sheet ends on the middle of a stud; if it doesn't, cut it. Mark the stud locations and snap chalk lines. Then push the sheet up tight against the ceiling and fasten it.
Double-nail to prevent nail pops. Space ringshank drywall nails 12 inches apart, with a second set about 2 inches from the first. Along the edges use single nails 8 inches apart. When a nail is flush to the surface, hit it one more time to create a slight depression, but don't break the paper surface.
If the wall you are covering includes a door or window opening, run the drywall right over the opening and cut it out after the drywall is fastened in place. If the sheet ends over the opening, cut the drywall with a handsaw, guiding the saw against the framing. It doesn't matter if the cuts are ragged or a little uneven because they will be covered by trim or corner bead.
If the drywall runs completely over the top of the doorway, use a handsaw to cut along the jack studs until you reach the bottom of the header on both sides. Snap a chalk line to mark the bottom of the header and cut along the line with your utility knife. Snap back the waste piece and cut the back paper free.