Drywall Hanging: How to Hang Drywall

You can attach drywall to the framing with nails or screws. Nailing is the faster method, but nails sometimes pop loose later, creating small bumps on the wall surface. (Nail pops occur when studs dry, forcing nails out a little, or if the drywall wasn't nailed tightly to begin with.) Screws cost a bit more in time and money, but they rarely produce pops. Screws must be used when working with steel studs.

Another option is to hold the drywall in place with construction adhesive. This allows you to use fewer nails or screws, reducing the time needed to fill fastener dimples. Adhesive also makes a stiffer wall and reduces nail pops.

You must also decide whether to attach the rectangular sheets horizontally or vertically. Most drywall installers prefer to run the sheets horizontally, which makes a stronger wall, especially over steel studs. In addition, this method places long joints about 4 feet up from the floor, a convenient height for finishing. Stagger the vertical seams if you can; doing so makes the wall stronger.

Prestart Checklist

About 15 to 30 minutes per sheet of drywall, depending on the complexity of the shape

Tape measure, chalk line, power drill/driver or hammer, drywall T-square, utility knife, jab saw, Surform plane

Measuring and laying out, driving screws or nails, cutting with a utility knife

Framing completed; utilities in place

Drywall sheets, 1-5/8-inch drywall nails or screws

In general, make as few seams as possible. Joints between horizontal drywall sheets do not require blocking if the studs are not more than 16 inches on center.

Hanging Horizontal Pieces: Step 1

Screw a 2x2 ledger about 52 inches below the ceiling. Place the drywall on the ledger. Make sure the sheet ends on the middle of a stud; if it doesn't, cut it. Mark the stud locations and snap chalk lines. Then push the sheet up tight against the ceiling and fasten it.

Hanging Horizontal Pieces: Step 2

Cut the bottom piece about 1 inch narrower than the space below the top sheet. With the uncut edge up, pry the sheet tight to the edge of the upper piece and fasten. When installed later, baseboard will hide the gap and the cut edge.

Fastening Drywall: Screws

Use a screw gun with an adjustable clutch or a regular drill with a dimpler attachment. Both the clutch and the dimpler are designed to drive screws so they sink just below the surface without breaking the paper. Space the screws 12 inches apart.

Fastening Drywall: Nails

Double-nail to prevent nail pops. Space ringshank drywall nails 12 inches apart, with a second set about 2 inches from the first. Along the edges use single nails 8 inches apart. When a nail is flush to the surface, hit it one more time to create a slight depression, but don't break the paper surface.

Fastening Drywall: Glue

Apply a bead of drywall mastic to each stud. Drive nails or screws into the sheet to hold it in place while the adhesive sets. You can space the fasteners 18 to 24 inches apart as long as the drywall is held firmly against the studs.

Making Cutouts: Step 1

Make cutouts to fit drywall around electrical boxes and other obstacles in the wall. Start by measuring and carefully laying out the positions of the cutouts on the face of the sheet.

Making Cutouts: Step 2

Use a jab saw to make the cutout. To make starting the cut a little easier, drill holes in the corners.

Making Cutouts: Step 3

If you need to trim the opening a little bit to make it fit, use a Surform plane. Drywall is hard on edge tools, so make sure to have one plane or rasp for drywall work and another for shaping wood.

What If ... You Have to Cut Drywall Around a Window or Doorway?

If the wall you are covering includes a door or window opening, run the drywall right over the opening and cut it out after the drywall is fastened in place. If the sheet ends over the opening, cut the drywall with a handsaw, guiding the saw against the framing. It doesn't matter if the cuts are ragged or a little uneven because they will be covered by trim or corner bead.

If the drywall runs completely over the top of the doorway, use a handsaw to cut along the jack studs until you reach the bottom of the header on both sides. Snap a chalk line to mark the bottom of the header and cut along the line with your utility knife. Snap back the waste piece and cut the back paper free.

Cutting Drywall: Step 1

Mark the piece about 1/4 inch smaller than the space it needs to fit. Use a utility knife to cut through the outside face of the drywall and into the gypsum. Make two or three passes to deepen the cut; you do not need to cut through the sheet.

Cutting Drywall: Step 2

To complete the cut, bump the back of the sheet at the cut line with your knee as you hold the sheet. This will snap the gypsum so you can fold back the sheet. Slice the back paper along the fold line with a utility knife.

Comments (3)
trangphongsang wrote:

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8/27/2016 12:25:43 AM Report Abuse
multimac86 wrote:

from.lou this kind of work i'm really crazy about sheetroc & electrical &plumping & roof patching & every thing that has to do with a house

10/7/2010 09:42:46 PM Report Abuse
boon9698 wrote:

good job

1/23/2010 10:10:20 AM Report Abuse
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