This story shows how to install a pocket door.
Install a single pocket door to save floor space -- the door disappears into the wall when opened. While basic types are used for closets and bathrooms, heavier, more elaborate double pocket doors are available for areas where appearance is important.
There must be room for the pocket door to travel inside the wall. The wall must be wide enough for the door and it must be free of plumbing, wiring, or ductwork.
The pocket door frame shown here is available at many home centers and comes as a unit with the track already attached, making it easy to install. In some cases you may need to buy separate parts -- including individual split jambs, spacers for the jambs, wheel carriers, and the overhead track -- and install them one at a time.
Purchase the door and its hardware along with the frame, and make sure all the parts will be compatible. The door size must match the size of the pocket frame.
Once the rough opening is done, half a day to install the pocket door frame, the drywall, and the door; a day or two more to finish the wall
Tape measure, hammer, level, drill, circular saw, drywall saw, screwdriver, nail set, tablesaw
General carpentry, wall finishing
Make sure there is room for the pocket door to slide into the wall, and cover the floor with a drop cloth.
Pocket door frame, pocket door with handle and wheel carriers, finishing nails or trimhead screws, jamb stock
Following manufacturer's specs, prepare an opening wide enough for the door frame. If there is an existing door, remove it and its jambs. Remove studs as needed (temporarily support the ceiling if the wall is load bearing) and install framing, including a header. Check the sides for plumb.
Attach the door frame to a stud and to the header. Use shims and check that the frame is kept square, level, and plumb. Attach the bumper to the rear of the frame (unless it will be attached to the door). If you are installing a set of two doors, install another frame on the other side.