This story shows how to install a storm door.
A high-quality storm door correctly installed provides a good measure of protection against the weather. If you also apply weatherstripping, you'll have a doorway that is nearly as well insulated as the surrounding wall. In addition, a storm door prolongs the life of the entry door by protecting it from the elements.
Many storm doors are flimsy affairs made of single-thickness aluminum, with poor weatherstripping and hinges that are likely to come loose. You'll save money in the long run if you buy a quality unit. Look for substantial weatherstripping around the glass panes and the door itself. The frame and hinge should be sturdy enough to stand up to wind gusts. The door frame should be insulated or made of clad wood. The door bottom should have a thick rubber seal that can be adjusted and, when necessary, replaced.
Inspect the opening where the storm door will be installed. The frame and molding should be fairly square and reasonably smooth, so the storm door can seal well. At the bottom the sill or threshold should be an even plane so the door's sweep can seal at all points.
About 3 hours to install a storm door
Tape measure, drill, hammer, level, tin snips, hacksaw, pliers, framing square, caulk gun, screwdriver, nail set
Measuring, leveling, fastening
Measure the opening and purchase a storm door to fit.
Storm door with latch and other hardware, caulk
Close the door and check that it seals snugly against the weatherstripping at all points. If needed, adjust the positions of the Z bar or the drip cap. Insert the handle parts from each side and drive screws to attach the parts. Attach the latch and adjust so the door closes tightly.