Fastening an Interior Wall to Concrete

With steel track, you can install a fastener as short as 20 mm, but a 27 mm length produces the better penetration and superior strength. Choose a 72 mm fastener length when working with 2x stock. The boosters (powder cartridges) are available in a variety of color-coded strengths to match the fastener to the density of your concrete. A yellow booster is about midway on the power range and is usually a good starting point.

If the concrete is less than a year old, you may be able to drive special hardened concrete nails. Some concrete nails are the cut-nail design, shown in the photo, with a thick flat shank and a tapering V-profile. Other nails have a thick shank that sometimes has spiral ridges for improved holding power. Choose a length that will penetrate the concrete at least 1 inch. Be sure to wear safety goggles when hammering masonry nails into concrete.

Masonry screws are an easy solution to concrete fastening chores. When you buy the screws, you'll also need to get a special bit that makes a pilot hole matched to the fastener. Drill at least 1/4 inch deeper into the concrete than the fastener's embedment, and suck dust out of the hole with a shop vac. The hex-head style has an integral washer to spread the bearing pressure for a firm grip.

There are several different styles of drop-in anchors. The style shown is called a sleeve anchor, and it installs easily through identical-size holes in both the sole plate and concrete. Tightening the hex nut pulls on the bolt and expands the slotted metal sleeve within the hole.

A hammer-drive anchor requires only a small pilot hole; the one shown requires only a 1/4-inch hole. Drill the hole at least 1/4 inch deeper than the length of the lower portion, and vacuum or blow out the hole. Drop in the anchor, and hammer on the pin to expand the bottom of the shield against the wall of the hole.