This story shows how to install dry-backed carpet tile.
Carpet tile is one of the easiest flooring materials to install. It's lightweight, cuts with ease, wears well, and goes down quickly. When it gets worn in one place (as any flooring tends to do), you can pull up a tile or two and put down fresh ones.
Aside from quality differences, carpet tile falls into two general categories: self-stick and dry-backed. The application of self-stick tiles is more or less self-explanatory. Installing dry-backed tiles (which are usually a little thicker) means laying down a mastic or using doubled-faced carpet tape. Mastic applications usually leave a little more time to fine-tune the layout and keep the joints straight. Double-faced tape won't gum up the entire floor, a factor to consider if there's a chance you'll one day remove the tile from a solid wood floor. In either case, acclimate the tile to the room for 48 hours before you install it.
About 15 minutes per square yard, not including subfloor preparation
Utility knife, tape measure, metal straightedge, chalk line, 100-pound roller
Measuring, laying, and cutting tile
Repair and level subfloor.
Carpet tile, mastic or double-faced tape for dry-backed installation
Lay the subsequent tiles in the same fashion, setting the tile with its leading edges against the previous tiles. Lay the tile, keeping the pressure against those in place. Don't slide the tiles. Set the tiles in a stair-step pattern so you have two points of reference for the next tile.
Remove the two tiles and, keeping the marked tile backside up, set a steel straightedge along the marker line. Make several light passes along the line with a sharp utility knife. When you have cut through the backing, bend the tile slightly and cut through it completely.