This story covers what to look for in a parquet tile and how to install it.
Most parquet tiles are cut with tongues and grooves, which makes installation easy. In the long run it pays to purchase the highest quality tile you can afford. A higher quality finish offers greater longevity and quicker installation time. The tongues and grooves of less expensive tiles may not fit together smoothly.
To seat the tiles against each other, tap them with a hammer and a block of wood. Avoid sliding the tiles, and kneel on a sheet of plywood as you get deeper into the project. Be sure there is no adhesive between the knee board and the tiles. Otherwise you'll pull up the tile when you move the board.
Take special care in laying your first 10 to 12 tiles -- these determine how well the joints on the rest of the floor line up. If any adhesive gets on the tiles, clean it immediately with a rag soaked in solvent. Never apply the solvent directly to the tiles; it could mar the finish. Leave a 1/2-inch gap between the edge tiles and the walls.
About 12 to 15 hours for an 8x10-foot floor
Pencil, hammer, extension cord, shop vacuum, fan(s), jigsaw or circular saw, chalk line, tape measure, notched trowel, carpenter's square, 100-pound floor roller, trim saw
Measuring and cutting
Repair floor as necessary.
Cork strips, mastic or adhesive, parquet tiles, adhesive solvent, rags
Prepare the subfloor, then snap chalk lines between the midpoints of opposite walls. If the shape of the room is irregular or features protrusions, snap the lines on the largest rectangular portion of the floor. That way your installation will be centered on the primary focal point of the floor. Square the lines with a 3-4-5 triangle and adjust the lines if necessary. Dry-lay the tiles so you have edge tiles of the same width and adjust the lines again if necessary. Set a cork expansion strip, usually provided by the manufacturer, along the wall when you're dry-laying the tile.
Scoop a small amount of adhesive onto the floor. Holding the trowel at a 45-degree angle, comb out the adhesive with the notched side of the trowel. Spread the adhesive up to but not on top of the chalk lines. Allow the adhesive to become tacky according to manufacturer recommendations.
Set the first tile in the adhesive exactly at the intersection of the layout lines. Use the edge of the tile, not the edge of the tongue or inside surface of the groove, to line it up. Position the tile with some precision. Avoid sliding the tile, as this will push up the adhesive.
Using the same technique, continue laying the parquet in the remainder of the first quadrant. When you reach a point where you have to work from the surface of the newly laid tile, spread your weight evenly over a 2x2-foot plywood sheet. When you reach the walls, mark the tile for cutting the border or edge tiles. Mark and cut each tile individually; don't cut them all to the same width unless you're absolutely sure the room is square.
Once you've completed the first quadrant, use the same methods to install the tiles in the remaining quadrants, always starting at the intersection of the layout lines. Within the time suggested by the manufacturer, roll each section with a rented 100-pound floor roller to set the tiles firmly in the adhesive.