Installing Wood Stairs

Intro

You can refresh your old staircase with new treads and risers. Wood replacement treads are available that can be secured directly over the existing "subfloor" treads and risers. The "body" of these replacement treads is 1/2 inch thick so that your steps will remain a consistent height. The nose on the replacement tread is 1 inch thick to retain the illusion of a standard tread.

You can also opt to remove the old stair surfaces and begin anew as shown here. Select a wood type for the new treads and risers that will complement flooring and moldings in the rooms the stairs adjoin. Standard stair treads come with a rounded (bullnose) front edge and measure 1 inch thick and 11-1/4 inches deep. Plan to measure the width of each stair because each one will vary slightly in width.

Stairs that are enclosed on both sides (with no balusters) are a job you can do yourself. For anything more complicated plan to hire a finish carpenter to do the job.

Prestart Checklist

Time
About 1 hour per step

Tools
Measuring tape, power saw, compass, pneumatic nailer

Skills
Measuring, scribing, and using a power saw and pneumatic nailer

Prep
Remove old stair surfaces if desired

Materials
Stair treads, risers, wood putty

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Step 1

Rip-cut the individual risers to the desired height. Measure the width of the riser and add 3/4 inch. Cut the riser to length. Temporarily tack the board in place.

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Installing engineered wood on stairs

You may also opt to use the same engineered wood you used on the floor to refresh a staircase.

Start by adding a layer of plywood over the top of each existing riser so the riser is now flush with the front edge of the existing tread. Cover the plywood with engineered flooring. (Measure the riser in two places before cutting.) If necessary scribe the riser as described in Step 2.

Test fit the riser in place. Cut a piece of bullnose tread to fit the front of the stair. Snug it in place over the test-fitted riser. Measure the remaining space and cut flooring to fit.

As you cover the stairs with engineered wood, use the same adhesive that you used on the floor to secure the pieces. It's also a good idea to mark the pieces as "riser" or "tread" so you don't confuse the two after test fitting.

When you're ready to install the pieces, start with the bottom step and install the riser first, then the nose on the step above, and finally the tread. Repeat this order for each step.

Step 2

With the riser in place, separate the legs of a compass to 3/8 inch. Draw the compass down the wall as shown, scribing a line onto the riser. Cut off the excess using the scribe as a guide and repeat the process on the opposite end of the riser. Scribe and cut the remaining risers in the same manner.

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Ordering treads and risers

When you are ready to shop for hardwood treads and risers, here's what is commonly available:

Stair treads are typically 1-inch thick and 11 1/4 inches deep and are available in widths starting at 36 inches and increasing in 6-inch increments to 72 inches. (Note that you can usually special order stair treads in any thickness, depth, or width.)

You may also discover that your stairs need "returns." These are attached to the side of the exposed tread, giving it a finished appearance. To determine whether you need a right-hand return or a left-hand return, stand at the bottom of the stairs and look up. If the right side is exposed, you need a right-hand (RH) tread. If the left side is exposed, then order a left-hand (LH) tread. If both sides are exposed, you need double return treads.

Step 3

Cut stair treads so they will overhang risers by 1 inch. Measure the width of each tread (which is the length of the board) and add 3/4 inch. Cut the tread to length. Scribe the end of the tread, following the same scribing procedure as described in Step 2.

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Step 4

Cut off the excess, following the scribed guidelines. Scribe the other end of the tread, following the same procedure as before, and cut off the excess tread.

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Step 5

Position treads on the stairs and secure each one with a pneumatic face nailer. Fill nail holes with wood putty.

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