This story covers cleaning siding and soffits, removing old paint and fixing cracks in wood siding.
No matter what kind of siding you have on your house, perform a general inspection before you prepare it for painting. Look for mold, mildew, damaged siding, and wet or dry rot.
Once you've inspected the siding, preparation follows the same general order -- remove mold and mildew, wash away dirt and chalking, repair or replace damaged siding, remove loose paint, and spot-prime the affected area.
To get the best finish on glossy surfaces, scuff sand them using a sanding block, pole sander, or sanding pads and 120- to 150-grit sandpaper. Do not oversand; just scuff the surface lightly to provide a roughened tooth for the new paint.
Water is the chief enemy of both wood and paint, so caulking gaps is important. Apply a top-quality all-acrylic or siliconized acrylic caulk to inside and outside corners, joints, seams, and other gaps where water could penetrate the wood's exterior. These caulks will adhere to a wide range of materials, even when they are wet.
Starting at the eaves and soffits, wash the surface with water only. Use a pressure washer equipped with a fan nozzle and adjust the pressure for cleaning wood surfaces. Do not hold the tip too close to the wood. A power washer can poke holes in wood and break windows.
Working from the top of the wall to the bottom, direct the water downward. Spraying head-on can damage the siding, and aiming the spray upward can drive water behind the siding and lift it from the wall. Turn the water off to release pressure before disconnecting the hoses.
Using a 5-in-1 tool or scraper held almost flat against the surface, scrape away loose paint down to the bare wood. To avoid gouging the surface, work parallel to the grain of the wood as much as possible. On carved millwork, use contoured scrapers available at your home center or paint store.
Apply an exterior stain-blocking primer on all repaired areas and all bare wood. This prevents wood tannins from discoloring the paint. On cedar, redwood, and mahogany, use an oil-base primer and apply it in dry weather at the recommended spread rate. Finish-coat the surface within a week.