Stripping Paint and Varnish
Some finishing projects will require only minimal preparation. Painted trim or furniture whose surface is in good condition may need only a good cleaning or some scraping and sanding. Items in rough condition, with multiple layers of paint poorly applied or some of which are coming off, will need stripping, no matter what kind of finish you're reapplying. This is especially true of wood trim and a necessity if you're changing from a latex to an oil-base finish, or vice versa, or restoring a painted antique to its original unpainted state.
Stripping solutions come in a variety of forms, from "cold" (with minimal health, fire, and environmental concerns) to "hot" (fast acting but posing potential health and environmental risks, therefore requiring careful precautions).
No matter what kind of stripper you use, wear heavy rubber gloves, eye goggles, old clothing, long-sleeve shirts, and a respirator. Do not use solvent-base strippers in a room with an open flame (a stove, water heater, or furnace pilot light, for example), and provide your work space with ample cross-ventilation.
Set up a receptacle for disposing of the finish you remove; an old paint can is a good choice, but several thick layers of newspaper will allow you to spread out the removed finish in a relatively thin layer so the stripper can quickly evaporate from the old finish. Once evaporated, you can safely dispose of the dried finish in plastic bags. Check with your trash removal agency to see whether the dried residue can be included in your regular trash pickup or if it must be taken to a special location.
If you use rags in any part of the stripping process, soak them in water and hang them outside to dry before disposing of them. Solvent-base strippers, especially, are prone to spontaneous combustion if wadded up in a closed container (like a trash bag) before the solvent has completely evaporated.