Brick cladding, also called brick veneer, will dress up the exterior walls of your home. Brick veneer is essentially a one-wythe wall attached to the house. After a few preparatory steps, you apply it using the same techniques as you would for a running-bond wall. The first step is to establish a solid bed for the brick to rest on.
You can dig a trench, build forms, and set a concrete footing along the wall, or you can fasten 4x4x3/16-inch angle iron to the foundation to provide a ledge, as illustrated on these pages. Even a half-high wall is a substantial weight, so fasten the angle iron with lag shields and lag screws. This layer of brick will trap moisture against the wall; weep holes at the bottom of the wall give trapped moisture a way to escape.
About a day to lay a 4x10-foot wall
Trowel, level, story pole, brick set, small sledgehammer, hammer, concave jointer, brush, open-end wrench, heavy-duty drill and bit, T-bevel
Mixing and applying mortar, measuring and leveling, cutting bricks, striking joints
Remove siding on sided surface
Mortar, brick, 4x4-inch angle iron, lag shield, lag screws, 2x lumber, finishing nails, glue
Snap a level chalk line on the foundation at the location of the angle-iron ledge. Cut the angle iron to length and drill holes at 1-foot intervals. Hold up (or prop) the angle iron on the line and mark the foundation at the center of the holes. Drill the foundation, insert lag shields, and attach the angle iron with lag screws.
Align the first brick with the edge of the foundation ledge and press it into the mortar. Leave a 1/2-inch airspace between the brick and the foundation. Make the mortar-bed joint 3/8-inch thick. Trim off the excess mortar and throw it back onto your mortarboard or the brick ledge.
At the middle, dry-set the final brick to make sure it will fit with 3/8-inch mortar joints. If it's too long, trim it slightly. Then butter both ends of the brick and push it in place. Make sure it's level and plumb. Move the line blocks up one course and lay that course. Continue laying courses past the top of the foundation.
At this point, and at every fifth course, nail corrugated brick ties into the studs. You can use a story pole to mark the wall at five-course intervals. Find the studs with a stud finder, a tape measure, or by finding the nails in the sheathing. Mortar the ties into the bottom joint as you set the next course of brick. Continue building leads and laying brick until you?ve reached the finished wall height.
The existing trim is cut for the thickness of your siding, so a rowlock course under the window will look out of proportion unless you extend the sill. Fix a T-bevel at the angle of the sill and transfer the angle to a 2x piece of lumber. Cut the extension on a table saw set to the same angle. Sand off or otherwise remove the paint on your old sill. Glue and nail the extension to the old sill.