Bathroom Faucet Repair and Installation

Installing a Bathroom Faucet

A bathroom sink typically has three holes. The faucet usually comes with a pop-up stopper assembly.

Bathroom work space can be cramped. If you have a pedestal sink, check to see whether the bowl is securely attached to a wall bracket. If so, you may be able to remove the pedestal. If you have a sink with a cabinet below, it may be easier to detach the trap, remove the sink, and set the sink aside to install the faucet.

If there are no stop valves under the sink, install them before putting in the new sink.

Whether you reuse the old supply tubes or buy new ones, make sure they are long enough to reach the stop valves. Purchase fittings (either 3/8- or 1/2- inch) that will fit your stop valves.


About 2 hours to install a bathroom faucet with a pop-up drain stopper assembly

Screwdriver, adjustable wrench, putty knife, groove-joint pliers, basin wrench

Shutting off water, working under a sink, attaching plumbing parts

Shut off the water, remove the drain trap if needed

New faucet, new pop-up drain (usually comes with the faucet), plumber's putty, supply tubes if needed

Step 1

Shut off the water and turn the faucet on until water stops flowing. Disconnect the supply tubes and the mounting nuts. Loosen the setscrew that holds the clevis strap to the lifter rod, pinch the spring clip, and slide the clevis strap off the pivot rod. Pull out the old faucet and clean the sink deck.

Step 2

You may be able to connect the supply tubes to the new faucet using two wrenches. If a rubber gasket isn't provided, press a rope of putty to the sink deck or to the underside of the faucet body. Lower the faucet into place.

Step 3

Have a helper hold the faucet straight while you tighten the mounting nuts from below. If the faucet is not solidly attached after hand-tightening, use a basin wrench to tighten the nuts.

Step 4

Loosen the slip nut to disconnect the drain body from the trap. Remove the locknut under the sink and slide out the old drain body. Clean away old putty. Place a new rope of putty around the hole, slip the new drain flange through the hole, and press it into place.

Step 5

Twist the locknut onto the drain body and slip on the friction washer and the rubber gasket. Hold the flange with one hand while you hand-tighten the drain body into it. Tighten the locknut with groove-joint pliers, making sure the drain body faces the rear.

Step 6

Install the pivot rod and the clevis strap. Apply pipe-thread tape to the threaded end of the tailpiece, and screw it onto the drain body. Install the trap.

Step 7

You can use the existing drain body or install a new one. With the stopper closed all the way, slide the clevis strap onto the lift rod and the pivot rod, using the spring clip to hold it in place. Tighten the setscrew that holds the strap to the lift rod. Install the trap.

Step 8

Make sure the stopper seals water when the lift rod is pulled up and that it opens fully when the lift rod is pushed down. To adjust, loosen the setscrew and move the clevis strap up or down.

Comments (2)
sbfrye2 wrote:

when you get everything bavk together and the water (cold still wont work

1/2/2010 03:34:15 PM Report Abuse
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