Kitchen Faucet Repair and Installation

Installing a Kitchen Faucet

The three holes in a kitchen sink accommodate most new kitchen faucets. Some faucets require a fourth hole for a sprayer.

Installing a faucet requires working in cramped conditions. If you are also replacing the sink, install the faucet before installing the sink. Otherwise do what you can to make the worksite comfortable.

Braided supply tubes make the job easier. Buy tubes long enough to reach from the faucet to the stop valves. If there are no stop valves under the sink, now is a good time to install them.

Most people find single-handle faucets easier to use. Make sure the spout is the right length for your sink. A heavy, solid-brass unit will outlast a less expensive unit. The faucet should come with a warranty that includes the sprayer.

Prestart Checklist

Time
About 2 hours to install most faucets

Tools
Screwdriver, adjustable wrench, groove-joint pliers, basin wrench, putty knife

Skills
Shutting off water, working under a sink, attaching plumbing parts

Prep
Shut off the water and remove the drain trap

Materials
New faucet, plumber's putty, pipe-thread tape, masking tape

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Step 1

Shut off the water and turn the faucet on until the water stops running. From underneath use a wrench or pliers to hold the stop valve still while you loosen the supply tube nut with another wrench or pliers. Disconnect the sprayer hose from the faucet or simply cut the hose.

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Step 2

With a basin wrench loosen the nut on the one or two mounting shanks. If there is a sprayer hose guide, loosen it from underneath with a basin wrench as well. On other types of faucets, you may need to loosen a center mounting nut.

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Pullout Faucet Installation

A faucet with a pullout spout, sometimes called a one-touch faucet, makes it easy to switch from standard faucet to sprayer. It uses only three sink holes, freeing one to accommodate a hot-water dispenser or a drinking-water faucet.

Installation is similar to a standard faucet. The hose is free to move without becoming entangled in supply or drain lines.

To install the faucet, slide the weight onto the hose and connect the hose to the center stud of the faucet.

Step 3

Lift out the old faucet. If you feel resistance check underneath to make sure everything has been disconnected. In rare cases an old faucet will have supply tubes that are sweated on.

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Center Mounting Nut

A center-mount faucet attaches to the sink with a single bracket instead of two tailpieces doubling as hot and cold supplies. Typically a bracket is snugged up against the sink with a nut. With center mounts supply tubes can be installed before the faucet is set into the sink.

Step 4

If the faucet does not have a rubber gasket, roll out a rope of plumber's putty and press it into place on the bottom of the new faucet. Make sure it is thick enough at all points to completely seal the faucet body.

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What If... The faucet has a gasket?

Some faucets have a rubber gasket, so they do not need a rope of putty. Make sure the gasket is centered and unwrinkled before tightening the mounting nuts.

Step 5

If you have a sprayer, install the sprayer support, tightening the mounting nut first by hand, then with a basin wrench. Don't overtighten. Run the sprayer hose through the sprayer support and through the center faucet hole.

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Supply tube options

Flexible plastic supply tubes are the least expensive but are not allowed by code in some areas. Plain copper and chrome-plated tubes are long-lasting but require careful measuring, cutting, and bending. Braided tubes are long-lasting and are the easiest to install.

Step 6

Make as many connections as possible before installing the faucet to minimize work under the sink. In this case the sprayer tube can be attached; mounting nuts must be attached from underneath before supply tubes can be installed.

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What If... Copper runs to stop valves?

Many plumbers prefer to install copper or chrome-plated copper supply tubes rather than flexible lines. This saves a bit of money and makes for a slightly more solid installation. Cut the supply tubes with a tubing cutter and bend them with a tubing bender. Attach the compression fitting.

Step 7

Slip the new faucet into place. If the faucet has inlets and a mounting nut in the center, getting all those tubes through the center hole will be a tight fit. Take care not to scratch the threads. If you need to bend a copper tube, do so gently to avoid kinking it.

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Step 8

Have a helper hold the faucet straight while you install the mounting nuts underneath. For this type first apply the mounting nuts and tighten them finger-tight. Check that the faucet is mounted straight before tightening with a basin wrench.

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Step 9

Fasten each supply tube by hand to the faucet base. Then tighten the connection using a basin wrench.

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Step 10

Screw on and tighten the supply tubes to the stop valves. Use two wrenches or pliers to prevent bending the pipes connected to the stop valves.

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Step 11

If you bumped the drain trap while working, you may have loosened its joints. To check, fill the sinks with water, remove the stoppers, and watch for any leaks. Tighten leaky joints.

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