Installing a Hot Water Dispenser

Adding a Hot Water Dispenser

This handy appliance instantly provides water heated to about 200 degrees. It plugs into a standard electrical receptacle. Copper tubing connects the dispenser to a cold-water line, and hot water is delivered through a spout mounted on the sink ledge.

The dispenser requires an unswitched electrical receptacle near the sink. To supply a garbage disposer and a hot water dispenser from a single receptacle, have an electrician install a split GFCI receptacle.

Position the tank and the copper lines out of the way under the sink. Usually, putting them on the rear wall is preferable to a side wall.

Prestart Checklist

About an hour, provided there is an existing electrical receptacle and an available knockout hole on the sink

Drill, adjustable wrench, basin wrench, groove-joint pliers, tubing bender, screwdriver, perhaps a hole saw

Mounting a unit with screws, assembling appliance parts

Clear out the cabinet below the sink; shut off water to the cold-water line

Saddle-tee valve or stop valve, hot-water dispenser

Step 1

Although you can attach a saddle-tee valve to the cold-water line without shutting off the water, doing so increases the chances of the valve clogging. Shutting off the water and drilling a hole makes for a more trouble-free installation.

Shut off water to the cold-water line; drain the line by opening a faucet at a lower level. Check the manufacturer's instructions for drilling a hole (typically about 1/8 inch) for the saddle-tee valve needle. Squirt a little multipurpose oil on the bit before drilling.

Step 2

Position the two parts of the saddle-tee valve on the pipe, making sure the valve's point pokes into the predrilled hole. Tighten the screws. Turn the water back on and make sure the valve works and does not leak.

Step 3

Mount the spout first. Carefully slip the copper lines through the knockout hole. Have a helper hold the spout in position while you work from underneath. Slide on the washer and the mounting nut. Tighten the nut by hand. If that is not firm enough, use a basin wrench to tighten it further.

Step 4

Determine where the tank will go; the copper lines must be able to reach it. Install the bracket with screws and slip the tank onto the bracket.

Step 5

Connect the copper lines according to manufacturer's instructions. Bend the tubes carefully to avoid kinking; use a tubing bender to be safe. Copper tubes connect to the tank using a plastic nut and ferrule; plastic tubes are secured with squeeze clamps.

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