Once you've drawn a plan for new plumbing service, develop a strategy for running the pipes. In a new building or addition where the framing is exposed, this is easy. If you are remodeling, be prepared to make changes in the plan once you've removed the wall covering and flooring.
Replacing finished surfaces after plumbing (especially patching walls) usually takes several days. A large wall patch -- even replacing an entire wall -- takes only a little more time than a small patch, so open plenty of space for working.
Once you've opened the vent and drain lines, running the supplies -- which usually run alongside drain-waste-vent (DWV) lines -- will be relatively easy.
For a modest bathroom two or three days to cut into walls and flooring and run pipes through framing
Demolition tools, drill with various bits and hole saws, reciprocating saw, level, tools for installing pipe
Carpentry, knowledge of your home's structure, installing pipe
Have your plan approved by the local building department
Pipes, fittings, clamps, and assembly materials listed on your plan
Cut a hole with some wiggle room for the new pipe. For a 3-inch pipe, use a drill and reciprocating saw to cut a hole about 4-1/4 inches by 10 inches through both the bottom plate of the room you are working in and the top plate of the room below. Cut away a 10-inch by 2-foot section of flooring.
You may need to cut a hole in the wall of the room above or below to guide the vent pipe up or the drainpipe down. In the attic you may be able to run the vent over to tie into an existing vent. If not, drill a hole in the attic ceiling and have a roofer install a roof jack for the vent pipe.
Anchor the drainpipe with straps. Cut a smaller opening in the ceiling for the vent pipe. For a 1-1/2-inch vent pipe, a 2-1/2-inch hole is sufficient. Guide the vent pipe up through the hole and into the attic or room above and slip its lower end into the fitting at the floor.