This project covers installing shingle panels.
Cedar shingle panels consist of shingles attached to a plywood or OSB backerboard. The backerboard is sealed to repel moisture. Each panel is a single course. The panels stack on top of each other to automatically create the exposure and have interlocking end joints, as well. The panels are available in a variety of exposures. Panels can be installed with outside corner trim boards, shingled corner boards that match the panels, or one-piece shaped corners, shown in these steps.
Prepare the walls as you would for standard cedar shingles by applying building wrap, applying self-stick flashings at the corners and around windows and doors, and installing metal flashings. You may also choose to install felt strips covering the studs or short strips at each butt joint. Snap chalk lines at the centers of studs. Install trim pieces at the inside corners and install any needed trim boards (at least 1 inch thick) around windows and doors.
The panels should be attached with nails or screws driven into studs so they can be installed over nonsolid sheathing.
With a helper, a day for 900 square feet
Nail gun or hammer, circular saw, tape measure, chalk line, drill, flat pry bar, level, caulking gun, utility knife, T-bevel, tin snips, staple gun
Measuring, laying out a job, driving nails, cutting with a power saw
Cover the sheathing with building wrap and install trim boards and flashings.
Shingle panels, 1X3 for the story pole, strips of felt or self-stick flashing, furring strip for the bottom, staples, stainless-steel or galvanized siding nails, sealer
Cut panels with a circular saw and a square. Cut from the back to minimize splintering. The shingle widths are random so most joints will be automatically offset, although it does not matter if the joints coincide on adjoining courses. Attach subsequent courses with blind nails near the top of the panels.